When in Rome:
try to do as the Romans do,
arise early and wear sturdy shoes,
try to do as the Romans do,
arise early and wear sturdy shoes,
eat pizza, lasagna, and chicken fetuccini alfredo,
orient your tourist map from the top of the Vatican,
search out and find and study as many monuments as you can,
be prepared to fall in love with Rome, Romans, and tourists, alike.
orient your tourist map from the top of the Vatican,
search out and find and study as many monuments as you can,
be prepared to fall in love with Rome, Romans, and tourists, alike.
Coulda been the early spring weather. Coulda been I needed to stretch my legs and my mind. Coulda been the warmth and loveliness of my Peace-Corps grandchildren. Coulda been the warmth of the people I encountered there. Coulda been that for nearly four years I have been in a sort of self-imposed seclusion -- and I needed to be again among people who openly celebrate their lives.
Whatever it was that took hold of me: I fell in love with Rome. And I know my reawakening began the morning we visited the Colosseum. The sun was bright, the sky blue. The crowds were immense and vibrant. The weather smiled. We all smiled back.
Against our better judgment we joined a tour. Thing is, tour-guides are engaging. But even more important, tour-guides and their charges get to cut right in front of the huge lines awaiting tickets and entry. Our tour-guide was short, tan and round, warm and smiling, engaging and familiar. Her patter was interesting and often funny. She knew lotsa interesting stuff she used to enliven her monologue. Did you know, for instance, that there is no written record proving that Christians were ever sacrificed in the Colosseum? Criminals, YES! Christians, NO! Hmmmnnn!? Christian criminals? (Perhaps this is true!?) An interesting assertion in any case.
I liked how our tour-guide swept our group with her bright eyes, focusing an instant on each of us in turn, accomplishing the strange effect that made each of us think she was talking to each one of us only. That was it! She seemed informed and credible. I thought she was a good teacher.
Whatever it was that took hold of me: I fell in love with Rome. And I know my reawakening began the morning we visited the Colosseum. The sun was bright, the sky blue. The crowds were immense and vibrant. The weather smiled. We all smiled back.
Against our better judgment we joined a tour. Thing is, tour-guides are engaging. But even more important, tour-guides and their charges get to cut right in front of the huge lines awaiting tickets and entry. Our tour-guide was short, tan and round, warm and smiling, engaging and familiar. Her patter was interesting and often funny. She knew lotsa interesting stuff she used to enliven her monologue. Did you know, for instance, that there is no written record proving that Christians were ever sacrificed in the Colosseum? Criminals, YES! Christians, NO! Hmmmnnn!? Christian criminals? (Perhaps this is true!?) An interesting assertion in any case.
I liked how our tour-guide swept our group with her bright eyes, focusing an instant on each of us in turn, accomplishing the strange effect that made each of us think she was talking to each one of us only. That was it! She seemed informed and credible. I thought she was a good teacher.
In fact, she was so good at her work that we stuck with her for over an hour, until we became so intrigued by the displays and the Colosseum itself that Mat, Marisa, and I finally decided to break free and follow our own shared interests. There are so many displays loaded with interesting artifacts and related information: armor, weapons and unique weapon combinations used by various groups of warriors and gladiators, intricate descriptions and models of pulleys and elevator systems once used to introduce to the arena the "actors" in that day's drama, on and on. It's a fascinating museum, in fact. It's compelling enough to look at the Colosseum. But to read and study, to learn about it. . .that is even more fascinating.
That first day, we spent at least three hours at the Colosseum. Remember also that the Colosseum is the centerpiece of the Great Square. It's flanked by the huge Arch of Constantine and the Temples of Greece and Rome. Constantine's Arch is virtually covered with bas relief motifs which record events that marked his life's work. Though we knew an interesting story of Constantine's life and contributions to the Empire was recorded there, we were unable to decipher the information offered there. My Latin is by now over fifty years old -- as dead as a dead language can become.
A short walk brought us to the ruins of Caesar's New Forum and the Forum of Augustus which stand high above the modern street level. What appeared so strange and impressive to me was how these various ruins of Ancient Rome stand right in the midst of modern Rome, its wide thoroughfares and bustling traffic. The old in the midst of the new. There's exists there such a strange mixture of past and present side-by-side in that relatively small space that I found it difficult to order and digest it all. Nor could I draw clear lines between the new and the old.
Nearby the Colosseum stand the extensive ruins of the Palatine, the Cradle of Rome, the so-called sacred birthplace of early Rome. This ancient ruin stretches high across a hill. I stood a long time trying to imagine it new and growing, filled with ancient Romans.
Behind and below another set of extensive ruins is what remains of The Circus Maximus. Not much left of it -- a long, narrowed and tapered groove in the ground, that called to my mind the violent Chariot Race of the great film Ben Hur.
We saw so much over the first three days of our visit:
That first day, we spent at least three hours at the Colosseum. Remember also that the Colosseum is the centerpiece of the Great Square. It's flanked by the huge Arch of Constantine and the Temples of Greece and Rome. Constantine's Arch is virtually covered with bas relief motifs which record events that marked his life's work. Though we knew an interesting story of Constantine's life and contributions to the Empire was recorded there, we were unable to decipher the information offered there. My Latin is by now over fifty years old -- as dead as a dead language can become.
A short walk brought us to the ruins of Caesar's New Forum and the Forum of Augustus which stand high above the modern street level. What appeared so strange and impressive to me was how these various ruins of Ancient Rome stand right in the midst of modern Rome, its wide thoroughfares and bustling traffic. The old in the midst of the new. There's exists there such a strange mixture of past and present side-by-side in that relatively small space that I found it difficult to order and digest it all. Nor could I draw clear lines between the new and the old.
Nearby the Colosseum stand the extensive ruins of the Palatine, the Cradle of Rome, the so-called sacred birthplace of early Rome. This ancient ruin stretches high across a hill. I stood a long time trying to imagine it new and growing, filled with ancient Romans.
Behind and below another set of extensive ruins is what remains of The Circus Maximus. Not much left of it -- a long, narrowed and tapered groove in the ground, that called to my mind the violent Chariot Race of the great film Ben Hur.
We saw so much over the first three days of our visit:
The Imperial Fora:
those of Caesar, Augustus, and Trajan,
The Palatine,
The Domus Aurea,
Tiber Island,
those of Caesar, Augustus, and Trajan,
The Palatine,
The Domus Aurea,
Tiber Island,
I have to say that after awhile these ancient ruins were difficult to distinguish. After all, a ruin is a ruin, is a ruin. Difficult though it was, we made it our business to see and absorb a rich sense of the monuments we studied. We really did try to grasp all the history reflected in these ancient sites. But trying to reconstruct in one's mind-eye the ruins, and then imagine these ancient Roman sites crowded with ancient Romans proved a mind-boggling task.
In fact, though: Mat and Marisa bought me a wonderful book I recommend for anyone wishing to interpret Rome's extensive catalog of ancient ruins. It's entitled "Ancient Rome: Monuments Past and Present." All of what we saw -- and much more -- is represented in the book. A rich text is offered on each monument. Even more fascinating is that each ruin is pictured in large 8x11 photos. Moreover, a heavy plastic overlay is provided, that when it is in place provides a startling picture of what that monument (probably) looked like when it was new. The publisher appears to be Tipolitographica CS, (Padova: 2006). An ingenious book.
That first day Mat also led us to the Trevi Fountain. To my surprise this wonderful fountain and its huge and striking statuary is -- how can I say it: "tacked onto the rear of a large building."
Nevertheless it looks out onto a large, busy piazza, and is an arresting sight. It rises from a large, walled recess and is surrounded by large benches, which at mid-afternoon were over-flowing with throngs of tourists. In the bright afternoon sun, the fountain shown to wonderful advantage. Like many others, I tossed in a coin and wished for love.
That was the first place we visited where I became aware of a horde of troublesome gypsy peddlers selling everything from fresh, beautiful red roses to cheesy plastic "guns" that shot bubbles. The peddlers were skillful: they would hand a bubble-gun to the youngest child, then approach the parents for money. Or place a long-stemmed rose in the hands of an attractive woman, then approach her escort for money. Perturbing? YES! More than once they got their roses and bubble-guns handed right back to them, perhaps along with an insult. By late afternoon, fathers and lovers can get pretty tired and irritable.
I confess it: I was sorry by evening I had not bought Marisa at least one rose. Coulda brought me the love I had wished for -- at least. Well!? Grandchildren are generous with their love anyway.
Rome puzzled and intrigued me. It drew me in and held me. I think the impression I came away with has as much to do with modern Rome as with ancient Rome. Rome strikes me as a place whose citizens share a keen sense of the place and its greatness over time. In fact, I remain as much impressed by the people I saw there and pressed in among, as by the astonishing sense of history that pervades the city.
It is one thing to live and work in a place, to know one's time, to love one's family and friends, to experience one's own time fully, moment-to-moment. It is quite another thing to sense oneself across a grand sweep of time as Romans appear to do. The Romans I saw appear to be part of a bustling present, yet somehow they are connected securely to this vast sweep of time that reaches back over 2000 years to Romulus and Remus.
On the other hand, I'm a proud American. I love our history and our lore -- a proud history that reaches back a scant 250 years. I'm not certain how that fact might make me different from the typical Roman citizen. I do, however, feel that such a sense of virtual timelessness must have its impact upon any thinking-feeling Roman.
Perhaps the warm openness and generosity I experienced in Rome is one aspect of the Roman character that results from this long historical perspective I'm trying to grasp and express. I thought I might encounter a tourist trap. Instead Rome felt like home -- even though I had little language, and lived in a hotel.
One thing is certain: I loved Rome. I want to go back again soon.
In fact, though: Mat and Marisa bought me a wonderful book I recommend for anyone wishing to interpret Rome's extensive catalog of ancient ruins. It's entitled "Ancient Rome: Monuments Past and Present." All of what we saw -- and much more -- is represented in the book. A rich text is offered on each monument. Even more fascinating is that each ruin is pictured in large 8x11 photos. Moreover, a heavy plastic overlay is provided, that when it is in place provides a startling picture of what that monument (probably) looked like when it was new. The publisher appears to be Tipolitographica CS, (Padova: 2006). An ingenious book.
That first day Mat also led us to the Trevi Fountain. To my surprise this wonderful fountain and its huge and striking statuary is -- how can I say it: "tacked onto the rear of a large building."
Nevertheless it looks out onto a large, busy piazza, and is an arresting sight. It rises from a large, walled recess and is surrounded by large benches, which at mid-afternoon were over-flowing with throngs of tourists. In the bright afternoon sun, the fountain shown to wonderful advantage. Like many others, I tossed in a coin and wished for love.
That was the first place we visited where I became aware of a horde of troublesome gypsy peddlers selling everything from fresh, beautiful red roses to cheesy plastic "guns" that shot bubbles. The peddlers were skillful: they would hand a bubble-gun to the youngest child, then approach the parents for money. Or place a long-stemmed rose in the hands of an attractive woman, then approach her escort for money. Perturbing? YES! More than once they got their roses and bubble-guns handed right back to them, perhaps along with an insult. By late afternoon, fathers and lovers can get pretty tired and irritable.
I confess it: I was sorry by evening I had not bought Marisa at least one rose. Coulda brought me the love I had wished for -- at least. Well!? Grandchildren are generous with their love anyway.
Rome puzzled and intrigued me. It drew me in and held me. I think the impression I came away with has as much to do with modern Rome as with ancient Rome. Rome strikes me as a place whose citizens share a keen sense of the place and its greatness over time. In fact, I remain as much impressed by the people I saw there and pressed in among, as by the astonishing sense of history that pervades the city.
It is one thing to live and work in a place, to know one's time, to love one's family and friends, to experience one's own time fully, moment-to-moment. It is quite another thing to sense oneself across a grand sweep of time as Romans appear to do. The Romans I saw appear to be part of a bustling present, yet somehow they are connected securely to this vast sweep of time that reaches back over 2000 years to Romulus and Remus.
On the other hand, I'm a proud American. I love our history and our lore -- a proud history that reaches back a scant 250 years. I'm not certain how that fact might make me different from the typical Roman citizen. I do, however, feel that such a sense of virtual timelessness must have its impact upon any thinking-feeling Roman.
Perhaps the warm openness and generosity I experienced in Rome is one aspect of the Roman character that results from this long historical perspective I'm trying to grasp and express. I thought I might encounter a tourist trap. Instead Rome felt like home -- even though I had little language, and lived in a hotel.
One thing is certain: I loved Rome. I want to go back again soon.
And while there,
I intend to do as the Romans do!
I intend to do as the Romans do!
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